As much as I love fried, green tomatoes, I really don't like juicy, red, ripe tomatoes. Something about the gelatenous innards grosses me out. It's a texture thing. So in the garden this year, I decided to grow Roma tomatoes. Their insides are more meaty and less gel-like. I'm also growing Parks Whopper Tomatoes for frying.
After a visit to the garden today, it occurred to me I'm going to have MANY more tomatoes than I need to fry. I've got to come up with some ideas on cooking with tomatoes or canning them. While listening to Dr. Josh Axe, a chiropractor and holistic medical practitioner, I decided to cut out sugar and make my own ketchup. I'm actually excited about this, and sure wish the tomatoes were ripe now.
Ketchup-like sauces originated in eastern Asia as a spicy fish sauce called Ké Tsiap. English and Dutch sailors brought the sauce to Europe, where many flavorings, such as mushrooms, anchovies, and nuts, were added to the basic fish sauce. A recipe in Eliza Smith's The Compleat Housewife, published in 1727, called for anchovies, shallots, vinegar, white wine, sweet spices (cloves, ginger, mace, nutmeg), pepper, and lemon peel.
By 1801 a recipe for tomato ketchup was printed in an American cookbook, the Sugar House Book. James Mease published another recipe in 1812. In 1824 a ketchup recipe appeared in The Virginia Housewife, an influential 19th-century cookbook written by Mary Randolph, Thomas Jefferson's cousin.
As the century progressed, tomato ketchup began its ascent in popularity in the United States, influenced by the American enthusiasm for tomatoes. Tomato ketchup was sold locally by farmers. A man named Jonas Yerks (or Yerkes) is believed to have been the first man to make tomato ketchup a national phenomenon. By 1837 he had produced and distributed the condiment nationally. Shortly thereafter, other companies followed suit. F. & J. Heinz launched their tomato ketchup in 1876. Heinz tomato ketchup was advertised: "Blessed relief for Mother and the other women in the household!"
The Webster's Dictionary of 1913 defined "catchup" as a "table sauce made from mushrooms, tomatoes, walnuts."
Tomato Ketchup Recipe from Recipe Curio
24 large tomatoes, concassed* (about 4 quarts)
1/2 cup chopped sweet red peppers (about 1 medium)
1 cup chopped onions
1 1/2 tsp. celery seed
1 tsp. mustard seed
1 tsp. whole allspice
1 stick cinnamon
1 cup sugar (I haven't made this yet, but plan to use raw honey. Wish me luck!)
1 tbsp. salt
1 1/2 cups vinegar
1 tbsp. paprika
Commercial citric acid (My brother Rob manages a wholesale spice company warehouse. Believe it or not, I already have this on the spice shelf!)
- Cook tomatoes, onions and pepper until soft. Press through a food mill or sieve. Cook rapidly until thick and volume is reduced by about one-half, about one hour. Stir to avoid burning.
- Tie whole spices in bouquet garni, or cheesecloth bag and add to tomato mixture along with the sugar and salt. Cook gently about 25 minutes, stirring frequently. Add vinegar and paprika. Cook until thick, stirring frequently to prevent sticking.
- Place one teaspoon commercially prepared citric acid in each quart jar (or one-half teaspoon in each pint jar). Salt may be added if desired. Pour ketchup, boiling hot, into hot canning jars, leaving one-eighth inch headspace. Adjust caps. Process 10 minutes in water bath. Makes about three pints.
*RecipeCurio Note: Concassed means peeled, seeded and chopped


